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舌尖上的加纳:黄金海岸的暗黑料理

来源: 南方日报网络版     时间: 2018年12月12日 09:45:36
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(  大)(英)(帝)(国)(暗)(黑)(料)(理)(天)(下)(闻)(名)(,微)(博)(界)(无)(人)(不)(晓)(。我)(当)(年)(背)(包)(苏)(格)(兰)(,口)(口)(相)(传)(一)(道)(卖)(相)(恐)(怖)(、入)(口)(想)(吐)(的)(高)(地)(名)(菜)(,名)(唤)(Haggis,乃)(是)(把)(各)(种)(羊)(杂)(塞)(进)(羊)(肚)(水)(煮)(三)(小)(时)(直)(到)(鼓)(鼓)(胀)(胀)(上)(桌)(。穿)(着)(苏)(格)(兰)(裙)(的)(高)(地)(男)(人)(问)(我)(:“尝)(一)(尝)(?”我)(把)(头)(摇)(成)(拨)(浪)(鼓)(。
  没)(想)(到)(,去)(年)(底)(转)(战)(西)(非)(,才)(知)(道)(暗)(黑)(料)(理)(不)(是)(腐)(国)(人)(民)(独)(享)(的)(美)(誉)(。西)(非)(国)(民)(美)(食)(Fufu(暂)(且)(音)(译)(作)(“富)(富)(”),一)(样)(“惨)(不)(忍)(睹)(”,可)(几)(内)(亚)(湾)(诸)(国)(无)(人)(不)(爱)(,更)(有)(黑)(人)(朋)(友)(说)(,去)(中)(国)(玩)(才)(待)(一)(周)(就)(开)(始)(想)(念)(祖)(国)(的)(富)(富)(,我)(只)(好)(作)(皮)(笑)(肉)(不)(笑)(状)(。
  世)(界)(杯)(要)(开)(始)(了)(,我)(问)(遍)(黑)(人)(朋)(友)(,你)(们)(看)(球)(吃)(什)(么)(?答)(曰)(,爆)(米)(花)(。那)(富)(富)(呢)(?世)(界)(杯)(是)(加)(纳)(人)(现)(在)(的)(头)(等)(大)(事)(,富)(富)(怎)(能)(缺)(席)(?答)(曰)(,下)(午)(吃)(一)(顿)(,可)(以)(连)(看)(三)(场)(球)(,怎)(么)(蹦)(]?(都)(不)(会)(饿)(!原)(来)(,富)(富)(和)(足)(球)(一)(样)(,是)(这)(个)(国)(家)(球)(迷)(们)(的)(能)(量)(棒)(和)(发)(动)(机)(。
  富)(富)(是)(什)(么)(?主)(要)(原)(料)(是)(西)(非)(最)(常)(见)(的)(作)(物)(,木)(薯)(和)(芭)(蕉)(。走)(街)(串)(巷)(时)(,常)(见)(两)(人)(配)(合)(,一)(人)(扶)(着)(地)(上)(的)(木)(臼)(,一)(人)(如)(持)(长)(枪)(般)(,举)(一)(根)(两)(米)(长)(的)(木)(棍)(捣)(臼)(里)(的)(白)(色)(团)(状)(物)(。那)(团)(令)(人)(垂)((hao)涎)((wu)欲)((shi)滴)((yu)的)(东)(西)(,是)(由)(木)(薯)(或)(芭)(蕉)(去)(皮)(后)(蒸)(熟)(,带)(点)(甜)(酸)(。
  吃)(的)(时)(候)(可)(有)(讲)(究)(。非)(洲)(给)(人)(的)(第)(一)(感)(觉)(是)(什)(么)(?原)(始)(神)(秘)(,野)(性)(大)(地)(。所)(以)(吃)(富)(富)(的)(时)(候)(,饭)(馆)(都)(在)(桌)(上)(摆)(好)(清)(水)(和)(洗)(手)(液)(——请)(忘)(掉)(西)(方)(人)(的)(叉)(子)(勺)(子)(和)(东)(方)(人)(的)(筷)(子)(吧)(,我)(们)(大)(非)(洲)(直)(接)(上)(手)(的)(。用)(香)(辣)(热)(乎)(的)(鱼)(汤)(或)(肉)(汤)(,往)(团)(子)(上)(一)(泼)(,关)(门)(,放)(右)(手)(。
  到)(加)(纳)(的)(头)(一)(个)(礼)(拜)(,我)(就)(尝)(了)(富)(富)(。到)(现)(在)(,半)(年)(了)(,还)(是)(只)(尝)(过)(那)(一)(次)(。因)(为)(富)(含)(淀)(粉)(,所)(以)(木)(薯)(吃)(起)(来)(格)(外)(顶)(饱)(,黑)(人)(朋)(友)(常)(常)(一)(天)(只)(吃)(两)(顿)(,大)(概)(和)(这)(个)(有)(关)(系)(。但)(要)(说)(到)(滋)(味)(,让)(我)(想)(起)(了)(西)(藏)(的)(糌)(粑)(,以)(及)(一)(个)(只)(在)(书)(本)(上)(见)(过)(的)(词)(——观)(音)(土)(。
  富)(富)(起)(源)(于)(加)(纳)(最)(古)(老)(的)(阿)(散)(蒂)(部)(落)(,后)(来)(由)(流)(动)(人)(口)(传)(播)(到)(尼)(日)(利)(亚)(、多)(哥)(、科)(特)(迪)(瓦)(乃)(至)(整)(个)(西)(非)(。木)(薯)(和)(芭)(蕉)(在)(几)(内)(亚)(湾)(沿)(岸)(国)(家)(即)(种)(即)(活)(,天)(生)(就)(是)(这)(里)(的)(主)(食)(——用)(舌)(尖)(体)(的)(话)(说)(,入)(口)(即)(化)(的)(松)(软)(,配)(上)(厚)(重)(浓)(郁)(的)(罗)(非)(鱼)(汤)(,这)(质)(朴)(的)(美)(味)(蕴)(藏)(着)(西)(非)(人)(民)(对)(故)(土)(的)(热)(爱)(。
  世)(界)(三)(大)(菜)(系)(,法)(国)(菜)(、清)(真)(菜)(、中)(国)(菜)(,在)(西)(非)(各)(国)(都)(落)(脚)(生)(根)(。这)(里)(大)(多)(数)(国)(家)(是)(前)(法)(国)(殖)(民)(地)(,又)(或)(是)(伊)(斯)(兰)(国)(家)(,还)(有)(数)(量)(庞)(大)(的)(中)(国)(商)(人)(。在)(西)(非)(寻)(觅)(世)(界)(美)(食)(,寄)(托)(了)(太)(多)(外)(来)(者)(的)(乡)(愁)(。而)(对)(于)(黑)(人)(来)(说)(,没)(有)(什)(么)(比)(富)(富)(更)(不)(能)(背)(叛)(。
  几)(百)(年)(前)(,黑)(奴)(贸)(易)(盛)(行)(,许)(多)(黑)(人)(被)(贩)(卖)(至)(加)(勒)(比)(海)(和)(南)(美)(,富)(富)(也)(随)(之)(传)(到)(了)(古)(巴)(、多)(米)(尼)(加)(、海)(地)(、波)(多)(黎)(各)(等)(国)(,形)(变)(而)(神)(不)(变)(,原)(料)(配)(方)(都)(因)(地)(制)(宜)(有)(所)(改)(动)(,但)(“师)(出)(同)(门)(”,老)(祖)(宗)(还)(是)(西)(非)(暗)(黑)(料)(理)(界)(这)(一)(系)(,甚)(至)(在)(古)(巴)(,连)(“Fufu”的)(乡)(音)(都)(不)(曾)(改)(。
  世)(界)(之)(大)(,多)(么)(奇)(妙)(。泰)(晤)(士)(河)(里)(一)(度)(大)(闸)(蟹)(成)(灾)(,中)(国)(吃)(货)(们)(摩)(拳)(擦)(掌)(就)(是)(帮)(不)(上)(忙)(;西)(非)(一)(方)(水)(土)(养)(一)(方)(富)(富)(,再)(精)(致)(好)(吃)(的)(菜)(系)(都)(难)(敌)(土)(里)(拔)(起)(的)(条)(条)(木)(薯)(。人)(走)(到)(哪)(里)(,就)(把)(自)(己)(的)(味)(觉)(带)(到)(哪)(里)(,西)(非)(头)(牌)(,富)(富)(是)(也)(。
作)(者)(林)(晓)(蔚)(系)(新)(华)(社)(驻)(加)(纳)(记)(者)(
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